Ceton InfiniTV 6 PCIe - Upgrade

[Motz]

The maximum bitrate is 20 Mbps, which is 2.5 MB/s. So 6 simultaneous streams results in a maximum of 15 MB/s. If a HDD can't do that, it's either broken or it's from the 1980s.

Ah yes sorry got my MB and Mb switched around:

So yeah like richard said: 130 MBps = 1040 Mbps. so yeah you should be just fine. It is just a "recommended".

[MeInDallas]

Thank you for your replies, appreciate it! Definately ready to get one now!

[Dean L. Surkin]

I had read that the 4-tuner model put out a lot of heat (a problem if you're using low-speed fans in the HTPC to keep noise level down, right?). How much more heat does the 6-tuner model produce? Or does it use different tuner chips, that dissipate less heat?

[The Mac]

I would like to know the answer to this as well.

Ive been running my ITV4s "hot" due to limited airflow in both my HTPC case,, and the rack i have it installed in.

Although it hasnt been a problem, im sure its shortening the life of the components, and the error messages are disturbing.

[haydongreenbutton]

Just ordered a Ceton InfiniTV 6 PCIe.
How will install be handled? I will be swapping out for a InfiniTV 4 PCIe

Having gone through this on Saturday...

The easy part was installation, moving the CableCard and re-running WMC configuration.

The nasty part was CableCard activation and pairing. Spent over an hour on the phone with someone who couldn't get it Validated/Paired. Getting a new CableCard tomorrow which should come with an activation code so I can do this online instead of calling someone. Some fool decided 'activation codes' would be better than selecting the CC from your account and pairing it that way. (My card predated activation codes - which I'm told expire anyway.) At one point I was told "If this doesn't work you're going to have to upgrade to an STB". My response to that was quite strong.

Fortunately most programming on FiOS doesn't require pairing so it's a minor inconvenience for a few days.

Nice thing was going through the guide and hitting record on six programs and having them all record without glitches. (At least for the time I reviewed.)

If there are no major issues with the InfiniTV6 I'm hoping for Ceton to pull a rabbit out of the hat with the Echo.

[Shackleford]

At one point I was told "If this doesn't work you're going to have to upgrade to an STB".

LOL upgrade.

[blueiedgod]

Since you mention FiOS. Log into your MyVerizon account, and you can activate and pair the CableCard from there. You may have to download the "in home agent" But it surely beats talking to someone on the phone who doesn't even know what CableCard is and insists on calling it TiVO card.

Just ordered a Ceton InfiniTV 6 PCIe.
How will install be handled? I will be swapping out for a InfiniTV 4 PCIe

Having gone through this on Saturday...

The easy part was installation, moving the CableCard and re-running WMC configuration.

The nasty part was CableCard activation and pairing. Spent over an hour on the phone with someone who couldn't get it Validated/Paired. Getting a new CableCard tomorrow which should come with an activation code so I can do this online instead of calling someone. Some fool decided 'activation codes' would be better than selecting the CC from your account and pairing it that way. (My card predated activation codes - which I'm told expire anyway.) At one point I was told "If this doesn't work you're going to have to upgrade to an STB". My response to that was quite strong.

Fortunately most programming on FiOS doesn't require pairing so it's a minor inconvenience for a few days.

Nice thing was going through the guide and hitting record on six programs and having them all record without glitches. (At least for the time I reviewed.)

If there are no major issues with the InfiniTV6 I'm hoping for Ceton to pull a rabbit out of the hat with the Echo.

[haydongreenbutton]

Since you mention FiOS. Log into your MyVerizon account, and you can activate and pair the CableCard from there. You may have to download the "in home agent" But it surely beats talking to someone on the phone who doesn't even know what CableCard is and insists on calling it TiVO card.

So those are the problems:
1. MyVerizon - Requires "Activation Code". My CableCards pre-date self installation and I never received activation codes. Scratch that.
2. In Home Agent - Never worked for me. In the past all I'd get is a blank window on any host I tried to run it on (even a completely clean VM). Scratch that.
3. In Home Agent #2 - Can't download it any longer? Download links take me to entertainment.verizon.com Scratch that.

In any case, I've just received my replacement CableCard so we'll see how online activation goes with an Activation Code.

Ah, managed to find a working web page to download the Agent. It's improved. However the only CableCard that it retrieves is the one that was delivered today. We'll see if it works with the new card.

edit: What a goat rope! In Home Agent:
"CableCARD activation failed.

Please contact Verizon using the following options for further troubleshooting:"

edit2: Lovely. MyVerizon activation:
Says it activated. It activated. It didn't Pair/Validate. Right where I was over the weekend.

[woodchuck]

Same here. No issues at all with my ETH and 3gb caviar green.

[MeInDallas]

I would like to know the answer to this as well.

Ive been running my ITV4s "hot" due to limited airflow in both my HTPC case,, and the rack i have it installed in.

Although it hasnt been a problem, im sure its shortening the life of the components, and the error messages are disturbing.

If you have the space for it, and/or an open slot, you might consider one of the PCI Slot fans. I've got one similar to this, and it brings the heat way down for the card. It runs between 40C to 42C most the time. Rarely gets much hotter than that. I run mine as low as it will go right next to the InfiniTV card and I dont hear anything from it. Its worth a try if you have the space.

http://www.vantecusa.com/en/product/view_detail/101

[haydongreenbutton]

If you have the space for it, and/or an open slot, you might consider one of the PCI Slot fans. I've got one similar to this, and it brings the heat way down for the card. It runs between 40C to 42C most the time. Rarely gets much hotter than that. I run mine as low as it will go right next to the InfiniTV card and I dont hear anything from it. Its worth a try if you have the space.

http://www.vantecusa.com/en/product/view_detail/101

Ceton really should just have a decent heat sink. Problem would be solved.

This isn't an 'industrial' card going into noisy servers with high speed fans. (e.g. RAID cards that requires 200 LFM of airflow.) It's going into quiet home computers with poorly designed chassis and airflow. That's Ceton's market and they should design their products for it.

As an aside, after spending six hours of my time I did get my CableCard Paired/Validated.

[The Mac]

I would like to know the answer to this as well.

Ive been running my ITV4s "hot" due to limited airflow in both my HTPC case,, and the rack i have it installed in.

Although it hasnt been a problem, im sure its shortening the life of the components, and the error messages are disturbing.

If you have the space for it, and/or an open slot, you might consider one of the PCI Slot fans. I've got one similar to this, and it brings the heat way down for the card. It runs between 40C to 42C most the time. Rarely gets much hotter than that. I run mine as low as it will go right next to the InfiniTV card and I dont hear anything from it. Its worth a try if you have the space.

http://www.vantecusa.com/en/product/view_detail/101

Unfortunately, that wont really fix the problem, it will just blow the hot air into the rack.

[nfn06010]

I have had good luck with a Thermaltake A2426 Cyclo PCI Slot Fan. Look it up. AND it doesn't blow hot air into the rack.

[haydongreenbutton]

Unfortunately, that wont really fix the problem, it will just blow the hot air into the rack.

Usually it will. It comes at the expense of more fan noise though.

Computer cases usually aren't overly hot but the lack of airflow around specific components causes those components to locally heat up. The solution is adding more internal airflow or a more efficient radiator. Both will improve heat exchange.

If the ambient temperature in the case is too high... Then you've got more problems than just the Ceton card.

[blueiedgod]

Since you mention FiOS. Log into your MyVerizon account, and you can activate and pair the CableCard from there. You may have to download the "in home agent" But it surely beats talking to someone on the phone who doesn't even know what CableCard is and insists on calling it TiVO card.

So those are the problems:
1. MyVerizon - Requires "Activation Code". My CableCards pre-date self installation and I never received activation codes. Scratch that.
2. In Home Agent - Never worked for me. In the past all I'd get is a blank window on any host I tried to run it on (even a completely clean VM). Scratch that.
3. In Home Agent #2 - Can't download it any longer? Download links take me to entertainment.verizon.com Scratch that.

In any case, I've just received my replacement CableCard so we'll see how online activation goes with an Activation Code.

Ah, managed to find a working web page to download the Agent. It's improved. However the only CableCard that it retrieves is the one that was delivered today. We'll see if it works with the new card.

edit: What a goat rope! In Home Agent:
"CableCARD activation failed.

Please contact Verizon using the following options for further troubleshooting:"

edit2: Lovely. MyVerizon activation:
Says it activated. It activated. It didn't Pair/Validate. Right where I was over the weekend.

hrm, I still have the original in-home agent that I used 3 years ago to activate cableCard when I moved it from ATI DCT. Hope it still works. It was literally a 5 minute job. I was able to cut and paste numbers from the tuner screen into the in-home agent.

Ceton InfiniTV6 ETH is on the UPS truck, "out for delivery" as we speak.

[blueiedgod]

Since you mention FiOS. Log into your MyVerizon account, and you can activate and pair the CableCard from there. You may have to download the "in home agent" But it surely beats talking to someone on the phone who doesn't even know what CableCard is and insists on calling it TiVO card.

So those are the problems:
1. MyVerizon - Requires "Activation Code". My CableCards pre-date self installation and I never received activation codes. Scratch that.
2. In Home Agent - Never worked for me. In the past all I'd get is a blank window on any host I tried to run it on (even a completely clean VM). Scratch that.
3. In Home Agent #2 - Can't download it any longer? Download links take me to entertainment.verizon.com Scratch that.

In any case, I've just received my replacement CableCard so we'll see how online activation goes with an Activation Code.

Ah, managed to find a working web page to download the Agent. It's improved. However the only CableCard that it retrieves is the one that was delivered today. We'll see if it works with the new card.

edit: What a goat rope! In Home Agent:
"CableCARD activation failed.

Please contact Verizon using the following options for further troubleshooting:"

edit2: Lovely. MyVerizon activation:
Says it activated. It activated. It didn't Pair/Validate. Right where I was over the weekend.

You were correct. The original in-home agent did not work. The new one required activation code. Automated CableCard activation over the phone deactivated existing CableCard. Had to spend 45 minutes on the phone with Verizon to re-activate the existing CableCard and to re-pair with the new tuner.

[The Mac]

Unfortunately, that wont really fix the problem, it will just blow the hot air into the rack.

Usually it will. It comes at the expense of more fan noise though.

Computer cases usually aren't overly hot but the lack of airflow around specific components causes those components to locally heat up. The solution is adding more internal airflow or a more efficient radiator. Both will improve heat exchange.

If the ambient temperature in the case is too high... Then you've got more problems than just the Ceton card.

Hense the original question.

If it runs cooler, ill have cooler ambient temps.

You can add all the fans you want, if the air cant go anywhere, its going to do nothing.

additional fans will not solve my problem.

PS: i ordered one, yes it runs cooler.

New issue:

argg....i get like -20db at the tuner, anything more than 2 shows recording at once will macroblock everything.

I had a cheapy Radio shack 8db four-way drop amp for my ITV4, but its not enough for the 6, brings it down to about -4db to -8db so now 3 or more will macroblock.

Anyone got a tip on a good dropamp and configuration options?

heres my setup

wall
|
-----
|^^|----------50ft run---------cable modem
|
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|-------TV
|-----+8 db Drop amp----|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|--------Ceton

my cable modem is borderline on the uplink @47 db (rsets once a week or so), and the tv isnt very sensitive to low signal, so it can be safely ignored.

[haydongreenbutton]

Anyone got a tip on a good dropamp and configuration options?

heres my setup

wall
|
-----
|^^|----------50ft run---------cable modem
|
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|-------TV
|-----+8 db Drop amp----|
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|--------Ceton

my cable modem is borderline on the uplink @47 db (rsets once a week or so), and the tv isnt very sensitive to low signal, so it can be safely ignored.

I avoid amplifiers because they generally do more harm than good. (Just introduce noise, especially the inexpensive ones.)

There surely must be more going on in the house/apartment than this diagram? -20db isn't anywhere near acceptable on an unsplit/tapped drop from a cable provider.

[barnabas1969]

Okie Dokie... I've been avoiding this thread, but I have to comment on post numbers 37 and 38 above.

First of all, if your PC and/or rack has insufficient air flow, then no PCI/PCIe slot fan is going to help you. You don't need a tremendous volume of air flowing through a dedicated HTPC, but you do need some cool air drawn in, and a place for the warm air to escape. The cool air should enter at the bottom, and warm air should exhaust at the top (of your rack/cabinet/PC/whatever).

Secondly, amplifiers only amplify the signal they receive (including noise and unwanted signals). So, you need to locate the amplifier as close to the source as possible. Do NOT connect an amplifier AFTER a splitter! Ever! The reason for this is: the longer the cable run before the input of the amplifier = more possible signal degradation + more noise induced from nearby sources. The best place for an amplifier is at the point where the cable enters the building. If you live in an apartment/condo, this is probably not possible. So, you need to locate the amplifier where the cable first enters the apartment. Many apartments have a place where this point is accessible (often behind a blank wall plate... if you live in an apartment go around and search for all the blank wall plates... remove each one, and look for a cable TV splitter behind the wall plate... of course, don't touch any wires that might have dangerous voltages... if you find a cable TV splitter... you need to connect your amplifier BEFORE the input of this splitter).

Third: Use a QUALITY amplifier/splitter. Radio Shack = crap. RCA = crap. Anything from Wal-Mart = CRAP! Anything from Lowe's and/or Home-Depot = questionable? Instead, use something from Antronix or Channel Master. Search e-bay and/or Amazon for Antronix and Channel Master splitters/amplifiers. If you have a tuning adapter and/or a cable-modem... and you need an amplifier, then you probably need a "bi-directional" amplifier (one that allows the signal to go both ways... but ALL splitters allow signals to go both ways).

Fourth: If your signal strength/power is already between +/- 7dB .... you don't need an amplifier! And.. if your SNR (aka "S/N") is below 32dB, and your signal strength/power is between +/- 7dB, then you have problems that an amplifier cannot solve. In this case, you need to contact your cable company to rectify the problem (which may include the wiring in your house).

Fifth: It is possible for nearby radio transmitters (including TV, radio, electronic equipment, home wiring, etc, etc, etc) to emit radio signals that can be picked up by your house wiring (including the cable that runs from the wall to the TV/VCR/DVR/etc) and these signals can/will interfere with the ability for your tuner, tuning adapter/resolver, and/or cable modem to send/receive signals reliably.

So... Use good quality cables/splitters/amplifiers. Make sure ALL connections are tight (not just finger-tight... use a wrench/pliers). Don't use cheap store-bought anything. Don't split the signals before an amplifier... it's better to use an attenuator AFTER the amp if the output signal is too strong.

[The Mac]

Thanks for the advice.

1) My airflow issues are fine now, the ITV6 runs cooler.

2) i understand thats optimal, however it did not provide enough gain for the ITV4, let alone the ITV6, so i had to place it infront of the ceton and live with the marginal cable signaling.

3) I have ordered a Moto BDA-K1/RA with active return to replace my crappy radio shack special. Since its 15db forward, 10db return i will again try to place it at the entry point to also boost my marginal cable modem signals (they are sufficiently low that the extra gain shouldnt throw it out of spec) and hope there is enough gain for the card. I have no TAs.

4) With only one or two tuners operating, signal is acceptable (between -4db, and -9db) however as more tuners are engaged, the signal drops rapidly, approaching -20db by the time it get to the 4th tuner. While this was tollerable whith the ITV4, this will be unaccepable once it hits the 5th or 6th tuner in the ITV6.

5) I live in an old apartment, in a historic section of the city - read: lousy infrastructure. My cable comes in through a whole drilled through the exterior wall and a single run strung down from the roof, where the main trunk is strung across many rooftopps. The house wiring inits entirety is a sigle cable shoved through said hole and left dangling on the floor. Both my splits and equipment is litterally a foot from that dangling wire (except for the 50ft run to the cable modem) so there is little chance of signal insertion (other than the shitty external cabling).


My diagram is off because the site removed all the spaces and i had to improvise, so ill explain.

My rack is literally 1 foot from the entry point.

The cable modem is split on a 2 way splitter right after entry, the 2nd leg going to a 2nd splitter to a tv, and the ceton.

without an amp, i am lucky to get 2 of the 6 tuners to functional without macroblockering.

putting the amp at the entry point does not provide enough signal boost for the ceton, so i had to put it in front of the ceton to get any additional tuners to function

The exterior/entry cable is old, from the old analog system (replacing it would be a major pain in the ass), and all my internal cabling and splits (except for the 50ft run to the cable modem) are literally right at the entry point so there is little chance of signal insertion.