Can't attach XBox Extenders after installing DCA

gary94080

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#21

Post by gary94080 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:00 am

the saga continues (and hopefully ends). long post. a couple of new somewhat connected questions at the end.

I called Arris and talked to the tech about my issues and he said that the firmware that I had was the one that Comcast uses. he put me on hold for a while to check to see if there was anything else I should do and he came back and said they had no recommendations except to take it back.

I asked him about shutting off the router function to check to see if there was an issue with using an Arris cable modem. he said it was bridging and when I asked him if it was easy to find in the settings and he said that it was there but it would cost me for him to tell me where it was. I said thanks but no. I found it quickly and shut down the router, interestingly it did not shut down the wireless. anyway I hooked up my router and everything seemed to work ok, so I quickly boxed up the router-modem and headed to Best Buy.

the door security/greeter said "oh your past the return date", and I said yeah but it won't hurt to ask. after running through may issues the staffer said she had to check with the supervisor who gave me the green light.

I picked up an Arris cable modem and a Netgear 8 port gigabit switch and got about $45 in store credit.

after getting back I set up the modem with a direct connection to a computer. called Comcast and quickly set up the modem and confirmed an internet connection. after hanging up I attached the Netgear router and checked the extenders, HDHR Prime and WMC PC and everything was working fine. then I found that I had no internet connection. what the @#&! was going on. I rechecked all the connections, power cycled the modem and router, no joy.

I didn't think it was their issue, but I called Comcast anyway explained the situation and he walked me through the process, power on the modem, router then PC. no connection. the lights showed there was a connection to the modem, but for some reason the router would not connect. he suggested checking the connections and as a last resort do a factory reset to the router and that I could call back later.

I took everything apart and rechecked with a direct connection to a PC. next I tried just the router with a PC, no connection. I was just about ready to throw something against the wall when I decided to try powering up the router before the modem. that worked. I started adding other components checking along the way. it seems to be working.

after I get some rest I will see about adding the switch. which leads me to another question. the best way to do that.

I was thinking of having the WMC PC, HDHR Prime, and the most used extender connected to the router then the rest of the extenders and NAS to the switch. another issue down the line is if I want to hook up a couple of devices at the end of a run, should I move that line to the router so I don't have a switch feeding another switch?

oh, one more question. does anyone have a different cable modem-router that works? I thought about trying a different one by Netgear, but decided not to risk it.

thanks for listening and letting me vent.

slowbiscuit

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#22

Post by slowbiscuit » Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:09 pm

Never get a modem/router combo that is out of your control (router-wise). Stick to basic cable modem + router that can handle aftermarket firmware, such as Tomato or DD-WRT.

For Tomato (my favorite) take a look at Shibby's list of supported routers:
http://tomato.groov.pl/?page_id=69

The Asus RT-AC66's and 68's in particular come recommended, and they are 802.11AC.

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Crash2009

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#23

Post by Crash2009 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 8:01 pm

Might be time for a Network Upgrade. Here are some recent projects for you to drool on. http://www.thegreenbutton.tv/forums/viewforum.php?f=11 Bringing all your runs back to one centralized switch with the correct number of ports reduces network issues, and simplifies troubleshooting.

16 or 24 port switches on all Gig networks seem to be popular here.

Two thumbs up for the Asus routers previously mentioned. I have been running one of their "older models" for a couple years now. I am just about ready for AC.

gary94080

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#24

Post by gary94080 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:04 pm

slowbiscuit wrote:Never get a modem/router combo that is out of your control (router-wise). Stick to basic cable modem + router that can handle aftermarket firmware, such as Tomato or DD-WRT.

For Tomato (my favorite) take a look at Shibby's list of supported routers:
http://tomato.groov.pl/?page_id=69

The Asus RT-AC66's and 68's in particular come recommended, and they are 802.11AC.
ok, I was just wondering if a different manufacture might have made a difference. there was a Netgear combo that I was also looking at but decided to go with Arris.

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#25

Post by gary94080 » Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:09 pm

Crash2009 wrote:Bringing all your runs back to one centralized switch with the correct number of ports reduces network issues, and simplifies troubleshooting.
so the priority should be to hook everything up to the switch first, before I overflow back to open router ports?

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Crash2009

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#26

Post by Crash2009 » Wed Aug 13, 2014 1:43 pm

gary94080 wrote:
Crash2009 wrote:Bringing all your runs back to one centralized switch with the correct number of ports reduces network issues, and simplifies troubleshooting.
so the priority should be to hook everything up to the switch first, before I overflow back to open router ports?
Depends. Any "Uplink ports" on the switch or the router?

https://video.search.yahoo.com/video/pl ... ge=0&&tt=b

gary94080

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#27

Post by gary94080 » Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:28 pm

no special ports are marked on the router or the switch.

thanks for adding the video link. it would have taken me longer without it. neither manual used the term Uplink or autosensing.

I am assuming that I don't have to worry about a disabled port on the router since there is no dedicated Uplink port.

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Crash2009

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#28

Post by Crash2009 » Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:35 pm

Here is a bit more info on how to: http://www.swhowto.com/HomeNetWiring_Ch3.htm See the section on UPLINK Ports -vs- Crossover Cables.

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Crash2009

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#29

Post by Crash2009 » Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:58 pm

You might need a crossover ethernet cable between the router and the switch. https://supportforums.cisco.com/discuss ... plink-port Once again, it depends, mostly on whether or not your switch and router can play nice together.

gary94080

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#30

Post by gary94080 » Thu Aug 14, 2014 1:27 am

Crash2009 wrote:You might need a crossover ethernet cable between the router and the switch. https://supportforums.cisco.com/discuss ... plink-port Once again, it depends, mostly on whether or not your switch and router can play nice together.
there is no mention of a crossover ethernet cable needed and there wasn't one in the box, so I am hoping that it's not needed.

I remember that the earlier routers used to have a cable test function and it would tell you if you had a straight cable or a crossed cable. I haven't seen that in a while so I was wondering if the newer routers auto correct for the right type of cable.

***********************************************************************************************************************************

Ok. just dove in and connected the switch. seems to be working ok with a normal Ethernet cable. I do have to go out and buy some short Ethernet cables. the components are connected with 3, 4 and 6 foot cables so there is a lot of excess. I also have to buy some of those plug extenders so all of those power warts can live together.

I have everything set up on an end table in a corner of the living room behind the flat screen tv which is set up at an angle across the corner so it's basically dead space behind the tv. right now it is a mass of glowing and blinking lights. a cable signal amplifier, cable modem, router, switch, SD HDHR Prime, Xbox power block and Seagate NAS all with indicator lights. I will have to see if it interferes with night time tv viewing.

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Crash2009

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#31

Post by Crash2009 » Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:52 am

"I picked up an Arris cable modem and a Netgear 8 port gigabit switch and got about $45 in store credit.".................."after getting back I set up the modem with a direct connection to a computer.............. called Comcast and quickly set up the modem and confirmed an internet connection. after hanging up I attached the Netgear router"

Totally missed that somehow. Newer devices use auto-mdi/x negating the use of a crossover cable. I guess we could expect auto-mdi/x to work between the two, and if not, that will be Netgear's problem.

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#32

Post by slowbiscuit » Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:15 pm

Yep, crossover cables haven't been needed for years now, most everything is auto.

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Crash2009

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#33

Post by Crash2009 » Thu Aug 14, 2014 2:56 pm

slowbiscuit wrote:Yep, crossover cables haven't been needed for years now, most everything is auto.
The 70's were a bit of a blur for me, looks like I missed 1998 as well.

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