Leave WMC running
-
soccer4270
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:03 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Leave WMC running
I have been having an inconsistent issue regarding my HTPC not providing a video signal after X amount of hours. To keep it all wife friendly I have WMC startup when HTPC is turned on but I prefer to leave the HTPC on at all times (not go to sleep, or hybrid sleep) only turning off the TV and the AVR. Problem is after some time goes by and I turn on the AVR and the TV I get no video signal unless I hit the windows key on the wireless keyboard, or go and restart the computer (lately only restarting has been the fix). I believe I have the power settings setup to keep it from going to sleep mode or turning the display off. Is there something else I may be missing?
-
adam1991
- Posts: 2893
- Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 2:31 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Ah, the magic words: AVR.
Mine is on 24/7 with no problems, but I don't have an AVR in the middle. Anytime you muck with HDMI, you get results like yours.
If you plugged the HDMI directly into the TV, you wouldn't see this problem. Such is the nature of putting a middleman in the HDMI stream.
Mine is on 24/7 with no problems, but I don't have an AVR in the middle. Anytime you muck with HDMI, you get results like yours.
If you plugged the HDMI directly into the TV, you wouldn't see this problem. Such is the nature of putting a middleman in the HDMI stream.
-
Crash2009
- Posts: 4357
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2012 12:38 am
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
-
HTPC Specs:
STC just gave me an idea....
Purchase an expensive HDMI Splitter and have everything anywhere or everywhere.
Purchase an expensive HDMI Splitter and have everything anywhere or everywhere.
- Attachments
-
-
soccer4270
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:03 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Sounds like many others have had a similar issue with AVR. I even have the AVR setup to bypass the signal straight to the TV when the AVR is turned off which I thought should remedy the issue somewhat as the signal is always being "pushed" to the TV.
-
Crash2009
- Posts: 4357
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2012 12:38 am
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
-
HTPC Specs:
Some amps have a passthrough port on the amp which would allow the obvious when the amp is turned off.
I banged my head against the wall for a couple days and ended up making the amp and EndPoint rather than a TransferPoint. As STC was saying one simple splitter can fix the problem for you. Look for a splitter that will do one source and two destinations. If you are not running anything fancy it should work OK.
If you are running some newer equipment, 4k TV for example, you might want to look into the difference between HDCP 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 which might require that you get an improved type splitter.
Extron should have what you need....
http://www.extron.com/download/files/wh ... dcp_wp.pdf
http://www.extron.com/technology/index.aspx?s=tab04
I banged my head against the wall for a couple days and ended up making the amp and EndPoint rather than a TransferPoint. As STC was saying one simple splitter can fix the problem for you. Look for a splitter that will do one source and two destinations. If you are not running anything fancy it should work OK.
If you are running some newer equipment, 4k TV for example, you might want to look into the difference between HDCP 2.0 and HDCP 2.2 which might require that you get an improved type splitter.
Extron should have what you need....
http://www.extron.com/download/files/wh ... dcp_wp.pdf
http://www.extron.com/technology/index.aspx?s=tab04
-
STC
- Posts: 6808
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 4:58 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
The splitter will act as the cheeky 'always on' device and not induce a new full HDMI handshake with your always on HTPC when you fire up the AVR.soccer4270 wrote:Sounds like many others have had a similar issue with AVR. I even have the AVR setup to bypass the signal straight to the TV when the AVR is turned off which I thought should remedy the issue somewhat as the signal is always being "pushed" to the TV.
By the Community, for the Community. 100% Commercial Free.
Want decent guide data back? Check out EPG123
Want decent guide data back? Check out EPG123
-
DavidinCT
- Posts: 1556
- Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:45 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Yea, I was thinking about this too. There is a 3rd party DVI over CAT6 (DVI-D, fully supports DVI to HDMI adapaters), this also does USB and IR. Set everything up in a closet, use cat6 extenders for each room with a IR eye (better than on any 360) and a nice system with no hardware in each room.Crash2009 wrote:STC just gave me an idea....
Purchase an expensive HDMI Splitter and have everything anywhere or everywhere.
The ONLY problem, the GOOD ones are close to $700 for a SET (both ends).... Cool IDEA but, not really cost effective.
-Dave
Twitter @TheCoolDave
Windows Media Center certified and WMC MVP 2010 - 2012
Twitter @TheCoolDave
Windows Media Center certified and WMC MVP 2010 - 2012
-
Crash2009
- Posts: 4357
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2012 12:38 am
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
-
HTPC Specs:
Look on monoprice... you can get a set for 40 bucks that will go 100 feet. Check how many gbps it will do. Get a little more than you need. The hdmi 4x4 MATRIX is the MAGIC. My audio sync is perfect when playing the TV and avr at the same time. Video is perfect too, even when playing 1 source to 4 destinations
-
DavidinCT
- Posts: 1556
- Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:45 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Crash2009 wrote:Look on monoprice... you can get a set for 40 bucks that will go 100 feet. Check how many gbps it will do. Get a little more than you need. The hdmi 4x4 MATRIX is the MAGIC. My audio sync is perfect when playing the TV and avr at the same time. Video is perfect too, even when playing 1 source to 4 destinations
Yea, the once I have worked with go up to 400 yds and flawless results beyond 1080p...You get what you pay for that is for sure...maybe I'll check this out...
-Dave
Twitter @TheCoolDave
Windows Media Center certified and WMC MVP 2010 - 2012
Twitter @TheCoolDave
Windows Media Center certified and WMC MVP 2010 - 2012
-
soccer4270
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:03 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
Quick update as I have been messing with this. I discovered in my BIOS there was a setting to allow wake from USB remote that was disabled so I turned that on as well as switching my HDMI port on my TV to one that the manufacturer specifies to use if a PC is connected to it. So far I have been able to turn on and press a button on the remote and it appears to wake the HTPC back up. So far so good 
I currently do have an HDMI over ethernet (cat6) and it works great! Granted was about $500 but it is capable of true 4K and 3D should i ever get a TV capable of that.
I currently do have an HDMI over ethernet (cat6) and it works great! Granted was about $500 but it is capable of true 4K and 3D should i ever get a TV capable of that.
-
Crash2009
- Posts: 4357
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2012 12:38 am
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
-
HTPC Specs:
First time I looked into 3D, the TV's were in the thousands. Found a decent little 3D projector for 7-800 (HD131Xe)
As it goes though, you probably get more for less $$ now.
I just looked up mine on Amazon...used 200 bucks. For 200 that's almost disposable 3D
As it goes though, you probably get more for less $$ now.
I just looked up mine on Amazon...used 200 bucks. For 200 that's almost disposable 3D
-
HTBruceM
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:42 am
- Location: Oregon
-
HTPC Specs:
My 2 cents in this issue...
When I had similar issues it was created by the timing of the devices powering on. I could replicate it consistently. The PC ends up seeing "changed" HDMI profiles because what the AVR sends back to the PC over HDMI will change depending on when the TV/AVR HDMI port has completed its negotiation. I was able to work around it using macro changes in the programmable remote control. In those macros I would make sure the TV turned on first and I added some WAIT period before turning on the AVR. That way the HDMI negotiation between the PC and AVR is "clean" and doesn't switch profiles at an inopportune time.
Some AVRs have a mode referred to above as "passthru" where any PC/AVR HDMI renegotiation just uses the same TV profile all the time, whether the AVR is turned ON or OFF. This is another workaround that may prevent the problem.
I'm glad that you found another solution that seems to work. My guess is that it works because the PC wake-from-sleep takes long enough that the TV/AVR HDMI negotiation has already completed. This would make the PC/AVR HDMI profile consistently reflect only the TV's display characteristics by the time the PC HDMI is ready to negotiate with the AVR.
As you can imagine the number of testing/validation permutations the PC graphics guys would have to contemplate here would be staggering. As a result there are probably lots of these issues that have never been debugged/fixed. I'm betting the true root cause lies in the PC graphics, but all we can do as end users is to apply workarounds.
When I had similar issues it was created by the timing of the devices powering on. I could replicate it consistently. The PC ends up seeing "changed" HDMI profiles because what the AVR sends back to the PC over HDMI will change depending on when the TV/AVR HDMI port has completed its negotiation. I was able to work around it using macro changes in the programmable remote control. In those macros I would make sure the TV turned on first and I added some WAIT period before turning on the AVR. That way the HDMI negotiation between the PC and AVR is "clean" and doesn't switch profiles at an inopportune time.
Some AVRs have a mode referred to above as "passthru" where any PC/AVR HDMI renegotiation just uses the same TV profile all the time, whether the AVR is turned ON or OFF. This is another workaround that may prevent the problem.
I'm glad that you found another solution that seems to work. My guess is that it works because the PC wake-from-sleep takes long enough that the TV/AVR HDMI negotiation has already completed. This would make the PC/AVR HDMI profile consistently reflect only the TV's display characteristics by the time the PC HDMI is ready to negotiate with the AVR.
As you can imagine the number of testing/validation permutations the PC graphics guys would have to contemplate here would be staggering. As a result there are probably lots of these issues that have never been debugged/fixed. I'm betting the true root cause lies in the PC graphics, but all we can do as end users is to apply workarounds.
-
soccer4270
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:03 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
I was just going to post an update today HTBruceM which is exactly in line with what you mentioned I did set my AVR as passthru to help aid this at first but still not much luck there (drove the wife crazy muwhahaha)
As when I first turned on from the remote, the issue would rise every so often. I then set the macros on the Harmony 650 to turn the AVR on first than the TV. The issue did get better but still a few issues. I finally noticed that since I was using a Rosewill RHRC-11001 on my HTPC infrared that when I would press the off button this was causing everything to go to sleep (at least I assume as much as every time I press on WMC goes straight to the guide). So far I have set up Harmony remote to macro the Rosewill first than AVR and finally the TV, assuming in this order the handshake process is linear? Time will tell.
I did set my AVR as passthru to help aid this at first but still not much luck there (drove the wife crazy muwhahaha)As when I first turned on from the remote, the issue would rise every so often. I then set the macros on the Harmony 650 to turn the AVR on first than the TV. The issue did get better but still a few issues. I finally noticed that since I was using a Rosewill RHRC-11001 on my HTPC infrared that when I would press the off button this was causing everything to go to sleep (at least I assume as much as every time I press on WMC goes straight to the guide). So far I have set up Harmony remote to macro the Rosewill first than AVR and finally the TV, assuming in this order the handshake process is linear? Time will tell.
-
Baxbag
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:50 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
I also have a IR attached to my HTPC and when I would power everything down (TV, AVR) with my Harmony it would also put my HTPC in sleep mode. I need my HTPC to run 24/7 and this would cause issues. To stop this I implemented the REG files from the links below and it stopped my HTPC from sleeping when I powered everything down with my Harmony remote.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/85 ... -menu.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/81 ... sable.html
Hope this helps.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/85 ... -menu.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/81 ... sable.html
Hope this helps.
-
DOS4EVER
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Thu May 28, 2015 1:24 am
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
You can change the power settings of your IR device in the Harmony app by telling it to stay on all the time.Baxbag wrote:I also have a IR attached to my HTPC and when I would power everything down (TV, AVR) with my Harmony it would also put my HTPC in sleep mode. I need my HTPC to run 24/7 and this would cause issues. To stop this I implemented the REG files from the links below and it stopped my HTPC from sleeping when I powered everything down with my Harmony remote.
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/85 ... -menu.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/81 ... sable.html
Hope this helps.
-
soccer4270
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 11:03 pm
- Location:
-
HTPC Specs:
My Harmony app will not allow me to remove the Rosewill from the power settings, would be nice if it did but that request will probably never come.
The other day I did change the powerconfig setting of the Rosewill from TV mode to PC mode and it seems to make a huge difference on starting up. No idea what the difference is between each mode as I have been unsuccessful in finding any literature about it (even in the user manual). I just set it on TV mode at first as I figured well that is what I am using it for.
The other day I did change the powerconfig setting of the Rosewill from TV mode to PC mode and it seems to make a huge difference on starting up. No idea what the difference is between each mode as I have been unsuccessful in finding any literature about it (even in the user manual). I just set it on TV mode at first as I figured well that is what I am using it for.