Anybody have any luck with PowerLine Adaptors?

Ask about SiliconDusts HomeRun tuners here.
blueiedgod

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#21

Post by blueiedgod » Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:33 pm

maseline_98 wrote:also....too bad the hdhomerun prime doesn't have onboard transcoding to be able to use the unit wirelessly with success...
It is not the bandwidth, but the reliability of wi-fi signal that matters. Wi-fi is simply too prone to packet losses, which most streaming services can deal with. HDTV can not deal with lost packets. Unplug the antenna or cable from your TV and plug it back in, the frames are lost forever. There is no buffer.

blueiedgod

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#22

Post by blueiedgod » Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:33 pm

maseline_98 wrote:too bad the xbox doesn't have wireless ac :?

See above

blueiedgod

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#23

Post by blueiedgod » Wed Nov 20, 2013 5:38 pm

barnabas1969 wrote:If you read the advertising verbiage for those powerline adapters, they tell you that they even work across phases (which is what I think blueiedgod meant by "same side" of the breaker box). However, it does seem to make sense that they would work better if they were on the same phase.

Just FYI, in the USA (in a normal household breaker box, which is almost always 2-phase), the phases alternate from top to bottom of the box. So, if the top row of breakers is on phase 1, then the 2nd row will be phase 2. The 3rd row will be phase 1 again, and the 4th will be phase 2... and so-on.
Yes, thank you. That is what I meant, same phase.

Not all boxes are created equal. I have seen some boxes where one side is one phase, and the other side of the breaker box is on the other phase. It is more common with boxes that have two rows if breakers.

I have seen boxes where the main shut off is 3-4 breakers down from the top, leaving the top 4 breakers on all the time. If someone doesn't understand how the breaker box is organized, they will get electrocuted, thinking that they have turned off the mains.

In my experience, powerline is a step above wi-fi in terms of reliability of signal, once you get it working, but MoCA is better, and Ethernet is the best.

Powerline seems to be susceptible to noise from high draw appliances. So, if you got it working, and it works well, and then you see issues, see if it is timed to the fridge, central air, sump pump, or dryer/stove/microwave kicking on.

barnabas1969

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#24

Post by barnabas1969 » Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:37 pm

blueiedgod wrote:Not all boxes are created equal. I have seen some boxes where one side is one phase, and the other side of the breaker box is on the other phase. It is more common with boxes that have two rows if breakers.

I have seen boxes where the main shut off is 3-4 breakers down from the top, leaving the top 4 breakers on all the time. If someone doesn't understand how the breaker box is organized, they will get electrocuted, thinking that they have turned off the mains.
Yes, I know that there are variations. What I meant by a "normal" household breaker box is what is most common. If a person isn't familiar with how to work safely with electricity, then they should not reorganize the breakers in their breaker box (nor even open it for that matter). And... ALWAYS test voltage with a volt meter to make sure the power is off before touching anything.

Now, I will say that I've never seen a breaker box that has phase 1 on the left, and phase 2 on the right. How would this work with 220 volt appliances and still meet code requirements that the two breakers must be mechanically connected so that both are switched off/on at the same time? Every breaker box I've seen alternates phases every 2nd slot vertically so that 220 volt breakers can be simply plugged into adjacent slots.

Fuse boxes, on the other hand... are an entirely different beast (and, frankly, should be replaced with a breaker box for safety reasons).

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