Punch down vs. coupler
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Punch down vs. coupler
Hey all,
I'm building a new house and I've got cat5e strung throughout. I know, everybody is going to say why not cat6, but that's beside the point.
At each outlet I'll be using keystone plates. I have the option of using punchdown jacks or using coupler style jacks. Hers a list of pros and cons I've come up with..
Punchdown pros
Cheaper - approximately $50 cheaper than couplers over the course of my house
One connection vs the extra connection of the coupler (wire to ice cube, ice cube to coupler)
Punchdown cons
Harder to install. Not particularly hard, but more time would have to go into it.
Coupler pros
Easy to install. Enough so to offset the $50.
Cons
An extra connection
Basically it comes down to the connection. How much better of a connection is a punchdown than plugging in a wire? How much extra error (of whatever sort) am i introducing with that extra connection? Thoughts/comments?
I'm building a new house and I've got cat5e strung throughout. I know, everybody is going to say why not cat6, but that's beside the point.
At each outlet I'll be using keystone plates. I have the option of using punchdown jacks or using coupler style jacks. Hers a list of pros and cons I've come up with..
Punchdown pros
Cheaper - approximately $50 cheaper than couplers over the course of my house
One connection vs the extra connection of the coupler (wire to ice cube, ice cube to coupler)
Punchdown cons
Harder to install. Not particularly hard, but more time would have to go into it.
Coupler pros
Easy to install. Enough so to offset the $50.
Cons
An extra connection
Basically it comes down to the connection. How much better of a connection is a punchdown than plugging in a wire? How much extra error (of whatever sort) am i introducing with that extra connection? Thoughts/comments?
- makryger
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I'm not sure you'll be able to appreciate any difference in connection between a coupler and stringing the lines yourself. I'd imagine that the punchdown is more prone to human error, so not only is it hard to install, but if you have issues, it'll also be hard to reinstall.
Out of curiosity, how many endpoints are you installing? I'm looking at monoprice, and keystone wallplates are ~40 cents apiece, and then the punchdown vs. the coupler are $1.24 vs. $1.80. You'd need quite a few connectors to get to a 50 dollar difference!
Out of curiosity, how many endpoints are you installing? I'm looking at monoprice, and keystone wallplates are ~40 cents apiece, and then the punchdown vs. the coupler are $1.24 vs. $1.80. You'd need quite a few connectors to get to a 50 dollar difference!
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I'm gonna have roughly 45 end points, but both ends will have to be terminated. Plus some extras for fixing errors, future expansion, etc. That also includes the cost of the connectors (ice cubes) I'd have to put on to plug into the couplers.
I'm very well versed in both punch downs as well as installing connectors, so I'm not worried about error so much s just time to install. I could probably do an ice cube in 5 minutes, a punch down maybe 10 to 15, but they just seem like allot more hassle than an ice cube.
I'm very well versed in both punch downs as well as installing connectors, so I'm not worried about error so much s just time to install. I could probably do an ice cube in 5 minutes, a punch down maybe 10 to 15, but they just seem like allot more hassle than an ice cube.
- makryger
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Ok. Well, if the connectors are done right, then there shouldn't really be any difference in signal for 99% of situations. It's all a question of how reliable the physical connections can be. If you are good enough at punch downs, then they are pretty reliable. Sometimes the couplers can have issues inside the cube where they just stop working over time. You'd then have to replace it, which indeed will be a faster replacement than a punch down. But after its replaced, things should be back to normal.
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Using a coupler will probably increase the line resistance of the whole total cable length slightly which would decrease the max length of the allowed run from ~328 feet for 100mb and ~300 feet for gigabit on cat5e by 10-20ft per coupler/patch, but I would not expect this to have any noticeable affect on network performance for a home network unless you are on the limits of the specs.
Note: OTH If you have speed certified network (probably not at home - but possibly in a high-tech office) then you are not allowed to use couplers.
Note: OTH If you have speed certified network (probably not at home - but possibly in a high-tech office) then you are not allowed to use couplers.
Time is on my side.
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I used punch downs in all my wall jacks. I don't think it took me 10-15 minutes each. Probably about 5 minutes. Of course, that's with a decent punch tool. The crappy one that comes in the package with the jack would make it much more difficult.
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Yeah,i guess i changed my mind back to punch... They're a little more widely available. If i need to,i can just run to home depot and get a couple. I'm probably underestimating the time to ice cube a write and probably over estimating time to punch. Plus,i can get a punch panel instead of one of those cheap keystone plates and double the amount of keystones.
Couple more questions...
Do they make a coax version of a punch down panel our am o going to have to do the cheap plate and keystone for that? Also, does anybody make a coax version of a network switch? I'm not looking for matrix sorts of things, but more along the lines of just a rack mountable coax splitter. It'd be allot nicer looking and cleaner than screwing an 8x splitter to the side of the rack.
Couple more questions...
Do they make a coax version of a punch down panel our am o going to have to do the cheap plate and keystone for that? Also, does anybody make a coax version of a network switch? I'm not looking for matrix sorts of things, but more along the lines of just a rack mountable coax splitter. It'd be allot nicer looking and cleaner than screwing an 8x splitter to the side of the rack.
- makryger
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It may be worth having a panel that has both ethernet and a hole for coax to make things look cleaner.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... largeimage
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... largeimage
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That I'm not worried about. I'm using keystone face plates so i can put three ethernet and one coax in each plate, our change it up as i see fit. I'm talking wiring closet end. ie,
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2
Versus
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2
Versus
http://www.monoprice.com/products/produ ... 1&format=2
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I'd like something like the former for coax, but I'm not sure anybody produces anything like it.
I'd also like a splitter that is rack mountable, so that when i am patching a wallplate in its cleaner than connecting to a splitter of to the side.
I'd also like a splitter that is rack mountable, so that when i am patching a wallplate in its cleaner than connecting to a splitter of to the side.
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I believe using 2 couplers technically violates the spec for Cat 6. Also punching down is easy - I recommend (and did go) that route
Quality Assurance Manager, Ceton Corporation
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They exist - there are a few at the Ceton office I actually got off eBay (new). Also you could just populate the keystone jack one you linked with coax inserts.bmblank wrote:I'd like something like the former for coax, but I'm not sure anybody produces anything like it.
I'd also like a splitter that is rack mountable, so that when i am patching a wallplate in its cleaner than connecting to a splitter of to the side.
Quality Assurance Manager, Ceton Corporation
- STC
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That's how my home is structured.erkotz wrote:Also you could just populate the keystone jack one you linked with coax inserts.
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I'm doing the same, except 4 up for the most part. I'll just do the keystone plate/coax thing, it'll probably end up way cheaper. Now, a rack mounted coax splitter would be sweet.
- STC
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Depending on how many ends you intend to terminate, it does help if you have a decent punch down tool with good blades.
Fluke or Krone etc.
Also for the COAX, compression F connectors are recommended too.
Fluke or Krone etc.
Also for the COAX, compression F connectors are recommended too.
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I'm lucky enough to get good tools for birthdays and Christmases. Not fluke good, but good enough to do a couple houses. Nice sharp hardened blades and whatnot.
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I must be missing something here, because for me doing a punch-down jack takes less time than crimping a RJ-45 end on all the cables. Again, I have a really good punch tool. I also carry a small piece of wood around with me (no puns, please) to lay against the wall when punching the jacks so I don't damage the drywall.
Last edited by kingwr on Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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forgot to mention.. one suggestion... If the budget allows and you are pulling to a central closet/location using a "patch panel" style setup, and since you are already pulling wire, for the RJ 45 jacks, put at least 3 at each location. If you are already planning on 3, then least one or two additional for expansion. Also pull at least 1 Coax to each location as well. It may seem like overkill but it will definitly be worth it for not having to pull wire again..do it once and be done for a long time.... The RJ45s can be used for ethernet, hdmi over cat5, audio over cat5 or POTS lines. The coax for TV or later if really needed, MOCA. I have never had anyone say that they regretted putting more drops, but several that wished that they had followed my suggestion at the time...
Time is on my side.